5 Tips For Finding The Right Wall Fixing For Your DIY Project

So, you’ve got a new shelf, mirror, or curtain pole to hang, but now you’re staring at the wall wondering, “What wall fixing do I even use for this?” Don’t worry, you’re not alone! Choosing the right wall fixing can be confusing, especially if you’re just starting out with DIY. The good news is it’s easier than you think.

Here are 5 simple tips to help you find the perfect wall fixing for your project, no matter what you’re hanging, or what kind of wall material you’re dealing with.

In brief: Choosing the right wall fixing comes down to two things: knowing what your wall is made of, and knowing how much weight you are hanging. Tap the wall to get a sense of whether it is hollow or solid, use a stud finder to locate timber uprights or check for pipes and cables, and if in doubt drill a small pilot hole to see what is behind the surface. Match the fixing to the wall type: masonry plugs for brick and concrete, wood screws into studs for stud walls, heavy duty toggle fixings for hollow plasterboard, and specialist dot and dab fixings for plasterboard over blockwork. Always check the Safe Working Load on the packaging rather than assuming the weight rating is a safe figure.

1. Figure Out What Your Wall Is Made Of

The first step is understanding what kind of wall you’re working with. Different walls need different fixings, so this part is key. Here are a few ways to tell:

  • Tap the wall. Give it a gentle knock.
    • A hollow sound? It’s most likely a plasterboard cavity wall.
    • A solid, dull thud? You’re probably dealing with brick, concrete, or a solid wood wall.
    • Hollow sound but some spots sound solid? You might have a “dot and dab” wall, where plasterboard is attached over blockwork with dots of adhesive, leaving a gap between them. This is pretty common in modern UK homes.
  • Use a pin or nail. Push it into the wall in an inconspicuous spot.
    • If it goes in easily, it’s most likely a hollow plasterboard wall.
    • If it stops quickly, it’s likely solid brick or concrete.
  • Drill a pilot hole. Drill a small hole in an inconspicuous place on the wall to see if there’s any insulation or masonry behind the plasterboard.

Still unsure? Look for clues like any existing screw holes or wall plugs, and think about when your house was built. Many modern homes have hollow plasterboard walls, while old houses are more likely to have solid ones made of stone or brick.

If it’s a hollow plasterboard wall, it’s a good idea to find if there are any timber studs behind it, as they can provide a strong anchor point, especially if you’re mounting something heavy like a TV.

A stud finder will come in handy here, and if you don’t want to buy one, see if you can borrow one from a mate or a local tool library. Then just move it along the wall until it indicates a timber stud’s location. Stud finders are also good for finding where the electrical wires and pipes run inside your wall as you don’t want to be drilling into those! Generally, drilling directly above or parallel to wall sockets isn’t a good idea, as wires are likely to run in those directions. Hand knocking on a wall

2. Match the Fixing to the Wall Type

Now that you know your wall material, it’s time to pick the right fixing. Here’s a simple breakdown:

  • Hollow walls (plasterboard): Use heavy duty plasterboard fixings or toggle fixings for heavier items. The key is to find a fixing that spreads the load behind the plasterboard as much as possible – Corefix Spike or Strap do just that for example. For lighter objects, small self-drilling plasterboard fixings like Corefix Twist or universal wall plugs will work (make sure they’re labelled as suitable for plasterboard though!).
  • Solid walls (brick, concrete, or stone): Use plastic wall plugs (with screws) or heavy-duty masonry anchors for heavier loads.
  • Stud walls (timber studs behind plasterboard): If you can find the wooden studs, go straight into them with a wood screw. No fixing needed! A simple magnetic stud finder can help you locate them.
  • Dot & dab walls (plasterboard attached over blockwork with a gap between them): These walls can be tricky. For lightweight items you’ll be fine with simple plasterboard fixings, as long as they have enough room behind the plasterboard to screw in. For heavy items, you’re better off securing the load to the blockwork as it’s far stronger than the plasterboard in front of it. Specialist dot & dab fixings like Corefix Connect are designed for just that, as they have a long plug which reaches through to anchor the load in the blockwork, and a steel core which bridges the gap so the plasterboard won’t have to hold weight or risk crushing when you tighten the screw. Watch how they work HERE.
Different wall types: Brick, plasterboard, concrete

3. Think About the Weight of the Item

One of the mistakes folks new to DIY make is underestimating how much weight their wall fixing can handle. As a general rule of thumb:

  • For lightweight items (picture frames, small shelves, coat hooks), most basic wall plugs or self-drilling plasterboard fixings will do.
  • With medium-weight items (larger shelves, curtain poles, mirrors), go for universal wall plugs for brick, block or concrete, or toggle fixings for plasterboard.
  • For heavy items (TV brackets, kitchen cabinets), you’ll need serious support like heavy duty wall plugs for solid walls. Ideally you’d want the load to be held by blockwork or timber studs rather than having to rely on the plasterboard material. If you have no option but to fix to the plasterboard, then go with heavy duty plasterboard fixings designed to spread the load as much as possible. These usually have wings that open behind the plasterboard – the wider the better!

Always check the packaging of your wall fixings for weight limits to be sure they’ll hold up. Pay attention to if the packaging specifies a Safe Working Load for the fixing, as this is a calculated weight that the fixing – you guessed it – is able to hold safely. Manufacturers sometimes print the fixing’s maximum or failure load on the packaging, but this doesn’t mean it’s going to hold that much weight safely! We’ve explained this a bit more in this video.

Person screwing a bracket onto a TV on the floor

4. Use What You Have:

If you’re working with a simple toolkit with just a screwdriver and maybe a drill, don’t worry. Many fixings don’t need any special tools to install and you can still tackle most DIY projects.

  • For hollow walls: Self-drilling plasterboard fixings are your best friend here. You can screw them directly into the wall without needing a drill, and usually even a basic handheld screwdriver will do the job.
  • For solid walls like concrete: Use plastic wall plugs and screws. You’ll need a drill to make a hole first, but even a basic cordless drill will do the trick.

Pro Tip: If you don’t have a drill and need to mount something light on a solid wall, have a look at adhesive solutions like command strips or strong mounting tape. These are perfect for lightweight items like picture frames.

Tools scattered in and around a toolbox

5. Test the Fixing Before You Hang Your Item

Once you’ve chosen and installed your wall fixing, give it a test before hanging the actual item. Gently pull or push on the fixing to check that it feels secure. If it moves or feels loose, it might not be the right fixing, you might have drilled a hole that’s too large, or the wall might need repairing. Especially with plasterboard, any movement at all will over time crumble the material around it until the fixing comes loose.

For added safety, always double-check the weight capacity and ensure you’re not exceeding it. Better to take an extra few minutes now than deal with a fallen shelf later!

Bonus Tip: Keep It Simple and Ask for Help

If you’re still not sure which fixing to use, don’t hesitate to ask for advice! Hardware & DIY shops have expert staff who can guide you. You can also find plenty of easy-to-follow guides (like this one!) online.

So hanging artwork, installing shelves, or mounting a TV doesn’t have to be complicated. Happy DIYing!

Frequently Asked Questions

Start by tapping the wall at several points and listening to the sound. A consistent hollow sound points to a plasterboard wall, either stud or dot and dab construction. A solid thud suggests brick, concrete, or stone. If you get a mix of hollow and solid sounds, you likely have a dot and dab wall where the hollow sections fall between the adhesive dabs and the firmer spots sit over them. If tapping is inconclusive, push a pin into an inconspicuous spot: easy penetration confirms plasterboard, quick resistance confirms masonry. A stud finder adds an extra layer of certainty and also helps locate timber uprights and detect hidden cables and pipes before you drill.

Yes, weight is one of the two most important factors alongside wall type. Lightweight items like small pictures, cable clips, and coat hooks can be hung with basic self-drilling plasterboard fixings or standard plastic wall plugs. Medium weight items like mirrors, curtain poles, and larger shelves need heavier duty fixings rated for that load in the specific wall material. Heavy items like TVs, kitchen cabinets, boilers, and radiators need fixings specifically engineered for both the weight and the wall type, and for dot and dab walls in particular, that means a specialist fixing that anchors into the masonry rather than relying on the plasterboard to carry the load.

The maximum load, sometimes called the failure load, is the point at which the fixing breaks. The Safe Working Load is the weight it can hold safely in normal use, calculated by dividing the maximum load by a safety factor, typically 2 for standard DIY applications. A fixing with a 100kg maximum load therefore has a Safe Working Load of 50kg. Some manufacturers print the maximum load on packaging without making it clear which figure they are quoting, which can be misleading. Always look for the Safe Working Load specifically, and if the packaging does not state clearly which figure is shown, treat it as a maximum load and halve it for practical purposes.

Most standard wall fixings need only a drill, a screwdriver, and the correct size drill bit for the plug being used. For solid masonry walls, a hammer drill significantly speeds up drilling and is worth borrowing if you do not own one. For hollow plasterboard walls, many self-drilling fixings can be installed with just a screwdriver and no drill at all, making them a good option if your toolkit is limited. A spirit level is essential for anything with multiple fixing points like shelves or TV brackets. A stud finder is worth using before drilling into any plasterboard wall to locate timber uprights and check for hidden cables and pipes.

Once the fixing is in place, push and pull it firmly in different directions before attaching anything. A correctly installed fixing should feel completely solid with no movement at all. Any play or wobble is a warning sign that needs to be investigated before proceeding: the hole may be slightly too large, the wall material may be softer than expected, or the fixing may not be the right type for the wall. With plasterboard especially, even minor initial movement will get progressively worse as the board material around the fixing crumbles under repeated loading, so a fixing that feels slightly loose when first installed will not improve with time.

If you are unsure of your wall type, if the item you are hanging is particularly heavy or valuable, or if the consequences of a fixing failure would be serious, it is worth seeking advice before drilling. Hardware and DIY shops can usually help narrow down the right fixing for a described situation, and manufacturers like Corefix have technical support available for more specific queries. Getting the fixing right before you drill is always easier than repairing damaged plasterboard, filling failed holes, and starting again after something has come off the wall.