If you’ve ever been on the hunt for wall fixings or hooks for a DIY project, chances are you’ve come across the term Safe Working Load. The same term is also sometimes used in engineering, for example in relation to cranes, hoists or winches, so you may have heard it in another context too. But what does it mean when it comes to picking wall fixings and why should you care? Let’s take a look.

Safe Working Load is specified by the manufacturer, and is generally defined as “the mass or force that a piece of lifting equipment, lifting device or accessory can safely use to lift, suspend, or lower a mass without fear of breaking.”
It’s calculated by dividing the Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) also known as Minimum Breaking Load (MBL) of the material by a safety factor, which is assigned depending on type and use of the equipment. For example, for wall fixings used in standard home DIY jobs it might be 2, while for cranes or lifting equipment on building sites it might be between 4 and 7, except if failure would cause risk to someone’s life, in which case the safety factor is normally 10. For example, if the Minimum Breaking Strength of the material is 200kg and the safety factor is 5, it means the SWL is 40kg.
Great, so what does all that mean? In a nutshell, it means that the Safe Working Load describes a force that is much less than the force needed to make the fixing break, but it’s the most weight it can hold safely.
SWL = MBS/SF
Yes and no. It’s the maximum load the fixing can hold safely, but SWL isn’t actually used to mark the maximum capacity of anything, as it’s too vague and leaves a risk of legal issues.
For example, Corefix Connect’s Safe Working Load is 55kg per fixing when used in dot & dab walls. These fixings have been tested to 250kg without failure, so it’s technically possible for them to hold more, but the installation would no longer be safe so we still recommend you stick to the Safe Working Loads!

The short answer is yes, but it’s not always that simple, as fixings have different SWLs in different wall materials. For example, Corefix One can be used in multiple wall materials, and while the 8mm plug’s SWL in 12mm plasterboard is up to 10kg, in solid masonry it can hold up to 100kg.
Even with plain plasterboard fixings, the SWL can vary depending on the thickness of your plasterboard, as manufacturers can specify different SWLs for different thicknesses. The most common type of plasterboard in the UK is usually 12mm thick, but plasterboard can range from 9mm to 25mm in thickness for a single sheet.
In the case of wall fixings, the safe working load is usually referring to the force pulling straight down parallel to the wall, also called the shear force, so when you’re hanging something close to the wall, like a mirror or radiator, it’s really the only force you need to worry about. But what if you’re hanging something off the ceiling or installing a cantilever TV bracket (ie a TV that swings out from the wall)? That’s when it gets a bit more interesting as you’ll also need to consider the tensile force (pulling outwards/at a right angle to the fixing.)
When you hang something from the ceiling, such as a plant pot, the main force at play isn’t the shear force, but the tensile force, as the weight of the plant pot is pulling the fixings out of the ceiling rather than along it.

The safety factor used to calculate a Safe Working Load is often higher for tensile strength compared to shear strength – this is because sufficient pull outwards would cause the fixing to fail suddenly, whereas in the case of increasing shear load it would bend but not necessarily break.
The Safe Working Load marked on fixing packs usually means the shear force, but due to the higher safety factor the tensile SWL for the same fixing is usually much less, meaning that even if a hook can hold 20kg when attached to a wall, it won’t be able to hold the same in the ceiling.
The ceiling SWL is often displayed on the packaging of fixings which are intended for both wall and ceiling use. Otherwise, you might need to check the tensile SWL on product datasheets from the manufacturer to make sure your hanging plant pots don’t come crashing down!

Similarly, if you’re installing a cantilever TV bracket, you’ll need to think about the tensile SWL. When the weight of the TV is close to the wall, the main force affecting the installation is the shear force, but as the weight of the TV moves further away from the wall, the tensile force increases and begins pulling the fixings out of the wall. So even if your fixings can hold a 20kg wall TV close to the wall, it doesn’t mean it’ll stay up further away from the wall. This is why you should always test the security of the fixing before mounting a heavy TV with a cantilever bracket, regardless of what your wall is made of and what fixings you’re using.
In a nutshell, don’t ignore the Safe Working Load on the fixings you’re using for your project, but remember to also consider your wall material and the shear and tensile forces affecting your installation. We hope this guide has cleared away some of the mystique!
If you still have questions or feel unsure, we’re here to help – just get in touch with our team.
Safe Working Load, often abbreviated to SWL, is the maximum weight a fixing can hold safely in normal everyday use. It is calculated by dividing the minimum breaking strength of the fixing by a safety factor, which accounts for variables like the quality of the installation, the condition of the wall material, and the likelihood of the load varying over time. For standard DIY wall fixing applications, the safety factor is typically 2, meaning the Safe Working Load is half the weight at which the fixing would actually break. It represents a weight the fixing can carry reliably and sustainably, not just momentarily.
The formula is straightforward: Safe Working Load equals the Minimum Breaking Strength divided by the Safety Factor. For example, a fixing with a minimum breaking strength of 200kg and a safety factor of 2 has a Safe Working Load of 100kg. The safety factor used varies depending on the application: for standard home DIY fixings it is typically 2, for lifting equipment on construction sites it is commonly between 4 and 7, and for anything where failure could directly endanger life it is normally 10. The higher the safety factor, the greater the margin between the rated working load and the point of failure.
Not exactly. Safe Working Load is the maximum weight a fixing can hold safely, which is a lower figure than the maximum or failure load. A fixing can technically hold more than its Safe Working Load, but doing so means operating without a safety margin, which increases the risk of failure over time as loads fluctuate, the wall material experiences wear, or the installation is subject to minor impacts or vibration. Corefix Connect, for example, has a Safe Working Load of 55kg per fixing in dot and dab walls but has been tested to over 250kg without failure. The SWL is the figure to use when planning an installation, not the failure load.
Yes, significantly. The same fixing can have very different Safe Working Loads in different wall materials because the strength of the anchor depends on what the fixing is gripping. Corefix One, for example, has a Safe Working Load of up to 10kg in 12mm plasterboard but up to 100kg in solid masonry. Even within masonry, the figure varies: standard blockwork gives a higher SWL than lightweight aerated or thermalite concrete. Always check the SWL for your specific wall material rather than using the highest figure quoted, as the difference between material types can be substantial.
With a fixed bracket, the TV sits close to the wall and the primary force on the fixings is shear, pushing straight down. As a cantilever bracket extends outward, the weight of the TV creates a levering effect: the top fixings experience increasing tensile force pulling them outward from the wall, while the bottom fixings are pushed inward. The further the TV extends from the wall, the greater this tensile force becomes, and the more demanding the installation becomes for the fixings. This is why cantilever brackets should always be used with fixings rated for tensile load in your specific wall type, and why they are not recommended on plasterboard walls without solid masonry behind them.
If you are unsure of your wall type, if the item you are hanging is particularly heavy or valuable, or if the consequences of a fixing failure would be serious, it is worth seeking advice before drilling. Hardware and DIY shops can usually help narrow down the right fixing for a described situation, and manufacturers like Corefix have technical support available for more specific queries. Getting the fixing right before you drill is always easier than repairing damaged plasterboard, filling failed holes, and starting again after something has come off the wall.